It's a quiet place here on the Island of Women, most of the time anyway. You may want to know why it's called that: One version is that when Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba landed on the island, he found several small statues of naked women believed to be representations of different goddesses, the most famous of which is Ixchel, Goddess of the moon, fertility, and all becoming. It is said that young virgins were sent to the island before marriage to ask for fertility and uncomplicated births.
Another versions states that Isla Mujeres was named such because when the first Spanish explorers came to the island in 1517, the men had all gone fishing and only women were present. because of this, the Spaniards only women occupied the island. I like the first version. And for island natives, the Goddess Ixchel (pronounced Eeshell) still protects and blesses her island.
It's pretty hot, so I lay low during the day and stay in the shade. I have only been to the beach thrice; twice to snorkel all afternoon and once to just lay in the shade and admire the blue blue blue of the water. It's nice to have friends; Katie and Catherine are amazing women who teach ESL here and Javier, the musician and general man-about-town (he knows EVERYbody) has been so helpful. After he finishes his gigs, I start my day. That's about 5:50-6pm. We usually go out on his scooter to the south of the island to get some air on us (thank Ixchel) and watch the sea during sunset . . . then he's off to to his other two gigs in the evening. Javier works hard. It's fun knowing a musician, because when the girls and I go listen to the band, it's like they're just playing for us. After a nap and shower, I'm ready to go out at 10pm, to have a bite and catch his band's last gig. By about midnight, it's over and I've seen everyone who I know who all come to Hidalgo street to eat and see entertainment. I make sure to catch my other friend Angel, who has a drumming troupe in which he performs acrobatics, and amazing poi spinning. They work for an hour or so every night making their living on tips. We've spoken about me dancing with them, but I don't want to mess with their gig, although I 'd LOVE to dance to those drums. Ironically, they're all going to Canada soon to tour and play.
Late at night, we often eat at BJ's taco stand, run by Mari Carmen, an amazing business woman, mother and kick ass person. She caters to the late crowd, and one night I went to say hi after being at the disco, and I ended up staying there all night 'til 8am. I didn't think those Micheladas she kept pouring me would affect me. After all, they're just mexican beer, lime juice and a salty salsa. But they just kept coming. Then there was the one, okay make that two shots of tequila with my favourite taxi driver Andres and his sidekick, the last ones remaining. I learned SO much spanish that night! ha. Tongue twisters were so much easier to do that night then ever before. Once in a while, after Javier's gig finishes we head out on the scooter to an out of the way taco stand across from the police station, that no gringo would ever know about, but where the food is good and where every local goes. The chocolate cake is riquisimo. I kind of like being the only gringa. It's then I KNOW I'm in real Mexico.
Yes, there's a disco on this little 7 mile long island. It's about a 10 x 10 platform in the sand, outside of this cool hostel on the beach. Sometimes its' really rocking, but mostly only after midnight 'til 3am. Reagaeton, Salsa, Cumbia, all kinds of music. There are logs to sit on (a bar of course) and hamocks tied to palm trees. Very Giligans Island, but ultra chido. People from all over the world come here to this island to visit.
One night, Javier took me to his neices 15th birthday party. In Mexico, the 15th birthday of a girl is a BIG deal. It's like having a wedding. A big fiesta with food, all the family, dancing, all honouring the girl. La quinciniera, it's called. She wears a beautiful gown, does a special dance near the end of the night which she has practised months for, and at the entrance to the place, is a humungous portrait of her in her finery. It was an honour to be able to see this; you have to be family to attend. I was thrilled. And yeah, I sort of stuck out. I'm getting used to it.
One glitch though: I met this cuban dance instructor at the disco one night who saw that I was having trouble remembering my steps when Angel was trying to spin me around to a salsa song. He gave me some tips, and I realized that this was a true teacher and that he knew a LOT. He told me he gave lessons and at what time, so the next day I went there. It was cool, and I ended up helping him teach others, translating for them and helping the man student, while he helped the woman student. I did get a little lesson, but I caught on quickly, since I already had studied and was just rusty. The couple were nice from New York and we all went out later to cool off at a sea side bar. I was so excited about the prospect of learning more from this man Jorge. He is famous in Cuba, bu left his country and lives on Isla to be near Cuba (his mom is there) and has plans to open a cultural centre, school on Isla. He said maybe we could work together in the meantime, me helping him with his students who are couples. Ok. I thought. Then two days later when I went for my private lessons, (which was great) he poured out his heart to me and said he thought I was the dancer of his dreams, would I marry him? We could work together, start the school, share ideas and creativity etc. etc. Oh boy. Maybe it's a Cuban thing. I was touched of course, and honoured that he thought I was a great dancer, but gee, um. . . marriage was a bit pre-mature. I guess this fellow had never heard of the soft sell. It was actually really really compelling and made me cry. Not only a fabulous dancer, but a true poet. I wish I could have recorded it all; it was a movie scene definitely. How sad that he was that foolish to pour out his heart and scare the hell out of me forever. I was as gracious as possible, and truly, I was honoured and didn't take this lightly at all, but inside I was thinking maybe he was a little crazy or at least immature and idealistic. So, I was honest with him; no I wasn't interested, I just wanted to learn more dance. He assured me we could work together and he would be nothing but professional. I thought ok, maybe it might work.
But then he started texting me 5 times a day, with poetry, words of desire, jealousy of other guy friends he would see me with, all about how much it hurt him, and on and on. OK, that's it, I thought, this is NOT going to change and unfortunately there goes my dance lesson plan. I was SO pissed off, but did not tell him anything. Firstly, it was hard to find the words ( I guess I should work on my angry words in Spanish, I don't have any practise) and secondly, I decided, what the hell's the point. The island is now starring to get a little tired so I figure my time is short anyway. One of the only things that would keep me here after a couple of weeks, is the dream of learning all the salsa and cuban dance I can. Not gonna happen.
So, I have a conference in Cancun to attend, and HAVE to leave for week, but instead of coming back to the Isla, I will continue on. Don't know where really. It's been a couple of weeks of meeting really nice people, making good friends, having siestas, fiestas and fending off mosquitos. And yes, the seafood was amazing. I have been so blessed to meet fabulous people, see incredible beauty and make magical connections. Pictures are of the blue Caribean, Angel fire spinning and one of both of us before the disco.
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